Ultimate Guide to Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument
Most people know about Utah’s “Big 5” National Parks— Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Zion, and Bryce. Still a lesser-known gem, but quickly increasing in popularity, is the magical landscape known as the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. This area is situated in South-central Utah and is currently 1.87 million acres of wildly beautiful, historically significant land, though it is once again in danger of being drastically reduced by the current administration. It is also surrounded by National Parks, Designated Wilderness, and National Recreation Areas.
You could spend a lifetime here and still have so much left to explore and discover. It is not only a geologist’s dream, but an adventurer’s playground and a photographer’s ideal— A place worth visiting over and over again, and undoubtedly a place worth protecting.
Map of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument
WHAT EXACTLY IS THE “STAIRCASE?”
Causing much confusion, the eponymous “Staircase” is not an actual physical staircase. It is rather an incredibly unique geologic formation, a series of stepped plateaus identified by the main color of the rock. The sedimentary layers of rocks that are exposed by erosion are descending in age all the way from Bryce National Park to Grand Canyon National Park. For example, the oldest rocks (the most-bottom visible layer) in Bryce Canyon are the youngest rocks (top layer) in the Gray Cliffs, and the oldest rocks (bottom layer) in the Gray Cliffs are the youngest rocks (top layer) in the White Cliffs.
For a more in-depth look at the geology of the Staircase, check out this blog article written by Alex Wood: The Fascinating Story of the Grand Staircase.
Why visit the monument?
Oh gosh, where to start! This place is magical. If you want to experience nature without the crowds, this is it. It is remote and quiet, and equally as epic as the surrounding National Parks. Whether you are looking for a camping getaway, an incredible hike, or just to admire the roadside scenery, this place will blow your mind.
THE LANDSCAPE
The landscape is the centerpiece attraction. With awe-inspiring views around every corner, you won’t get bored. The dramatic spires rising into the sky, colorful rocks forming buttes and mesas, and towering sandstone cliffs will surely mesmerize you. All of these formations were formed over millions of years and contain so many mysteries and opportunities for both adventure and contemplation. There are countless slot canyons, some narrow enough that hikers have to squeeze through the windswept walls, and others with huge drops that require ropes and canyoneering skills.
If narrow slot canyons aren’t your thing, this landscape also has expansive open desert covered in impressive, hardy desert plants. If you’re lucky, you could even witness a desert bloom of gorgeous white primrose and orange globemallow. Think that the desert is all dry and hot? If you are in Escalante, you are actually not far from one of many desert oases. You can hike for days along a beautiful, flowing, spring fed creek, or hang a hammock beside the Escalante River for a relaxing afternoon among the cottonwoods. 
THE HUMAN HISTORY
The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument also has a rich human history, stretching back thousands of years. This region, even with its remote and rugged terrain, provided food, shelter, and water to many cultures for at least the past 10,000 years. Tribes that have called this region home include the Fremont, Hopi, Zuni, Navajo, multiple bands of Paiute, and Ute. To this day, you can find evidence of their dwellings, rock art, and granaries dotting the landscape.
Let your imagination run wild while imagining how they used to live, surviving and thriving in tune with nature and this special land. Petroglyphs, pictographs, pottery, and stone tools are all over for those who pay attention. Please, remember to practice Leave No Trace and never remove any artifacts from where you found them. They are sacred and should be left for future visitors to admire. Human activity in these spiritually significant places can degrade them quickly and irreversibly. Travel lightly and only on durable, previously impacted surfaces.
OTHER ARCHAEOLOGY
Some paleontologists believe that the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument holds the highest concentration of dinosaur fossils in the world! It is commonly referred to as the “Shangri La” of dinosaurs due to the discovery of at least 15 species of dinosaurs that have not been found anywhere else. The Kaiparowits Plateau is a 50-mile ridge that spans 1,650 square miles and is covered in artifacts.
In addition to dinosaurs, fossils of ancient turtles, shellfish, and tons of perfectly preserved prehistoric plant life have been found— all of which give us a clearer window into the past than ever before.
Imagine what else there is left for us to discover as long as we protect and learn from this land.
What to do
DAY HIKES
Calf Creek Falls (lower)
Distance: 6.1 miles | Elevation gain: 550 feet
This is one of the more popular hikes in the Grand Staircase, and for good reason. It is a stunning, lush desert oasis complete with waterfalls, moderately easy hiking, incredible rock formations, pictographs, and ultimately a reprieve from the dry desert.
- Trailhead: Lower Calf Creek Falls off of Highway 12 (parking fee required)
Escalante River
Distance: 6 miles | Elevation gain: 260 feet
This trail is wonderful for anyone who wants to spend the day near water, as this hike takes you in and out of the Escalante River multiple times (bring water shoes or sturdy sandals). There is plenty of vegetation in this canyon, offering many opportunities to relax in the shade. If you are wanting more, download a map and look up directions to Bowington Arch before heading out, as there isn’t a sign for it along the hike.
- Trailhead: Escalante River Trail off of Highway 12
Spooky & Peek-a-boo
Distance: 6.3 miles | Elevation gain: 670 feet
These two slot canyons offer a fun and exciting, slightly challenging adventure. Peek-a-boo is full of beautiful, large rock formations and Spooky is very narrow and winding. They are the best easy-to-reach slot canyons I have ever explored that don’t require ropes and technical gear.
- Trailhead: Lower Dry Fork Narrows off of Hole-in-the-Rock Road
Esclalante hiking Tours
Golden Cathedral
Distance: 10-15 miles| Elevation gain: 1,500 feet
This is one of the most iconic overnight trips in this area. Its mileage is relatively short, but with big rewards. Descend off of Egypt Bench down Fence Canyon to the Escalante River to make camp, and then explore up Neon Canyon to an awe-inspiring natural bridge formation.
Plan to spend some time here. When the sun filters through the holes in the formation, golden cathedral spires form, hence the appropriately given name.
- Trailhead: Fence Canyon Trailhead (high-clearance, 4WD recommended)
Coyote Gulch
Distance: 10-30 miles (depending on route) | Elevation gain: 1,800 feet
Technically located in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, this gem of a hike has gained a lot of popularity in recent years. Bring and use wag-bags for human waste disposal, leave everything you find, and please don’t trample the life-giving cryptobiotic soil.
This hike winds along a perennial stream in a wide canyon, with multiple springs, waterfalls, stone arches, massive alcoves, and natural bridges. It is a trip you’ll never forget.
- Trailhead: This hike can be done many different ways. The trailheads includeRed Well, Hurricane Wash, and Fortymile Ridge (Crack-in-the-Wall). Make it a point-to-point by setting up a car shuttle or going with a guiding service. My favorite way to hike this one is going from Red Well to Crack-in-the-Wall (the Wildland Trekking way!).
Boulder Mail Trail
Distance: 15 miles (point-to-point, requiring a car shuttle) | Elevation gain: 2,600 feet
This is a challenging backpacking route, requiring route-finding skills and desert hiking experience. It is a remote wilderness area full of history and archaeology, mesmerizing views, river hiking, and epic campsites.
For those ready to take this one on, you won’t be disappointed. It’s one that I go back to again and again throughout my lifetime.
- Trailhead: Boulder Mail Trail off of Hell’s Backbone Road in Boulder, UT to the Escalante River Trail in the town of Escalante, UT.
Esclalante Backpacking Tours
SCENIC DRIVES
It is nearly impossible to spend time here without hitting at least one of the best scenic drives you’ve ever had. The entire area is filled with stunning beauty, and taking a drive is the best way to admire the most landscape possible.
Highway 12
Drive Highway 12 from Boulder, UT to Bryce Canyon National Park (about 1.5 hours each way). You can easily spend a whole day making stops along the way. My favorite part is undoubtedly the section from Boulder to Escalante, where you travel along a winding spine of sandstone with amazing views in all directions.
Hole-in-the-Rock Road
This is a dirt road that leaves from the town of Escalante and offers access to the most notable hikes listed here. Even if you don’t want to hike, driving as far as you wish along this road will provide a memorable day. It is almost 56 miles long but slow going. You can’t get to the end without a high-clearance, 4WD vehicle, but most of the road is just a washboard and does not require 4WD.
Make sure to have plenty of water and what you’d need to change a flat tire, pay attention to the signs along the way, and head out!
Know Before you go:
Where to Stay
Escalante
My absolute favorite town to stay in when I am visiting the Grand Staircase is Escalante, UT. It is located next to many of my favorite hikes and sights and has everything you’d need without being overly developed. Since it is such a remote and small town, it is worth planning ahead for your stay. If you are camping, you may want to stop at a larger grocery store along your way. If lodging, I recommend booking your accommodations in advance.
My favorite stays in Escalante:
Camping – Petrified Forest State Park
Lodging – Slot Canyons Inn
Inn-based Escalante Tours
Golden Cathedral
Kanab
Another great jumping off point for adventures in the area is Kanab, UT. This town offers great access to the outdoors, an informative Visitor Center, lodging, and delicious food. Depending on what you want to do in the National Monument, this could be a great base!
If you want to explore elsewhere, there are also plentiful lodging options in the towns of Bryce Canyon, Boulder, Panguitch, and Tropic.
NOTABLE EATERIES
Escalante Outfitters (Escalante, UT)
THE ULTIMATE STOP. Do you need any gear? Souvenirs from local artists? Books or trail guides? Are you a fan of specialty coffee? A freshly handmade, irresistible baked good? How about the most delicious pizza in the West?
Escalante Outfitters is literally the one-stop shop for everything! They even have laundry and showers available for purchase, a great patio, and free WiFi.
Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm (Boulder, UT)
An incredible Farm to Table experience! They grow most of their own vegetables and herbs on their organic farm, serve locally-raised meat, and make their own jams, breads, and hot sauces. Be sure to make a reservation if possible!
Escalante Mercantile (Escalante, UT)
Looking for a grab-and-go breakfast or lunch? This is the place! It even has plenty of locally-made goods, artwork, a limited but healthy grocery selection of groceries, and a cute patio to enjoy a hot beverage.
This place has a wonderful and unique menu, a super cozy atmosphere, and great service. This is a hidden gem in the middle of a small town!
WHEN TO GO
The best times to visit Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument are during the months of March-May and September-November. Since much of the National Monument is between 5,000-8,000 feet in elevation, winter can be very cold and snowy here. The white snow is so dramatic against the incredible red rocks, but if you are looking to fully enjoy the outdoors, plan your visit for the fall and spring “shoulder seasons.” Summertime temperatures can soar above 100 and create dangerous conditions for desert hiking.
HOW TO GET THERE
One of the major perks to visiting this area is the remoteness and solitude you can experience. That can also make travel a bit tricky, but don’t let that deter you!
Las Vegas, NV
The best way to access this area is by flying into Las Vegas and renting a car. I highly suggest a car that you can take down dirt roads (any SUV will get you many places, but a low-clearance sports car will not). You could even stop to hit Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks along the way! The drive is about 5 hours to Escalante, UT, but only 3 hours to Kanab.
Salt Lake City, UT
With a similar drive time to that from Las Vegas, this drive also takes about 5 hours to get to Escalante or Kanab. This route does not offer the same dramatic scenery or optional National Park stops as the drive from Las Vegas. But if you want to visit Salt Lake it is a wonderful option!
Page, AZ
If you are looking for a closer airport, there is also a small one in Page, AZ. If going this route, be sure to stop at the Big Water Visitor Center to check out their dinosaur exhibit. If visiting between the months of May and November, you can also make a trip to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon from here!
Get Out and Explore!
The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is one that you have to see for yourself to understand its vastness and unending treasures. This place holds a special place in my heart, and I look forward to going back every Spring and Fall. There is so much to explore, kind locals who welcome outside visitors, and a landscape that is undeniably worth protecting.
This is a place that is difficult to describe in words because it leaves you speechless with its beauty. Get out there and immerse yourself. You’ll return home with an expanded sense of wonder and inspiration to keep exploring. The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is full of things yet to be discovered.
