Through the efforts of a local non-profit and the community, restoration work began on the watershed. In 2020, samples taken from various locations along the Cheat showed that hellbender salamanders had returned to the river. Their presence indicated that the restoration work was successful and the river had returned to a healthy level. When I’m home, I visit the river hoping to catch a quick glimpse of these extraordinary amphibians in my own backyard.

The eastern hellbender’s range extends from southern New York through to Northern Georgia, following the path of the Appalachian mountains. A few years ago, during time spent working in North Carolina, I was lucky enough to see these well camouflaged salamanders in the Smoky Mountains. They were out of sight again just as quickly as I found them, leaving behind a small cloud of sediment in their wake. But, even without seeing them in person, it’s hard to visit Appalachia without coming across the hellbender’s influence. The mascot of local high schools, and the image on many a bottle of local IPA, an outsider might ask why the hellbender salamander is so important to this region.

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The following devastation was unfathomable. The winds devastated an approximate 800,000 acres of timber land, the creeks in the mountains surged across 25 counties destroying everything in their path, and as the rivers swelled, neighboring communities were lost in the raging waters. The flooding that resulted was the worst in recorded history, the French Broad River rose to a historic thirty feet deep, the Swannanoa to twenty-seven (or 3 from CFS to 10,000). 

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Three and a half miles of climbing along the Shining Creek Trail I gain the ridge and turn south along the Art Loeb for an easy half mile to the gap.  The building snow as I climbed amplified my excitement of the views to come and gave me hope that this was all going to be worth it.  It is 8 years of exploring, predicting weather and discovering secrets of these vast forests and mountains that gave me the inspiration for this exploit.  Finally at the gap, grasses and remnants of last year’s plants covered in a thin layer of ice, and snow covering the peaks around me I wrap up in a blanket and sit down as the first hues appear on the horizon. 

Shining Rock Wilderness Guided Day Hike

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That’s all there is to thru-hiking, right?

That’s what I kept telling myself as I climbed the steep switchbacks of Mt. Whitney, the tallest peak in the lower 48 and the start of a much larger journey. My feet crunched on the sandy trail beneath the dim glow of my headlamp, while the moon kept a quiet, watchful vigil overhead. I felt like an ant crawling through towering granite walls that stretched endlessly into the sky. With each step, the weight of my pack and the enormity of the journey ahead pressed down on me. The thin air stung my lungs, my legs burned, yet excitement surged through me stronger than the fatigue. I was finally here—about to embark on the John Muir Trail, with its 211 miles of untamed wilderness, beauty, and challenge. 

But as the summit loomed far above, so did the fear of the unknown. Would I be strong enough? Could I handle the unpredictability of nature? Every switchback became a battle between anxiety and hope, the physical challenge pushing me to my limits while my heart raced with anticipation. When I finally reached the flat, rocky expanse of the summit, I pulled out my sleeping bag, layered up in my warmest clothes, and sipped half-frozen water from my crusty old bottle. Watching the sun rise in the east, I felt that familiar peace that only comes from accomplishing something difficult in the wilderness.

The John Muir Trail (JMT) is renowned for being one of the most breathtaking long-distance hiking trails in the world. Stretching through California’s Sierra Nevada mountains it winds through iconic wilderness areas including Yosemite, Kings Canyon,and Sequoia National Parks, as well as the Ansel Adams Wilderness. It takes hikers over high alpine passes, past pristine glacial lakes, and through ancient granite formations—each as awe-inspiring as a national park in its own right. 

But while the beauty of the JMT is undeniable, the logistics of permits, resupply points, and navigation can be daunting for even seasoned adventurers. A thru-hike requires preparation far beyond physical conditioning, from managing resupplies and reroutes due to weather or wildfires, to planning meals and dealing with ever-changing trail conditions.

So a bit more than step, breath… 

In this article, I’ll share my experience on the John Muir Trail (JMT) as part of my Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) thru hike, focusing not only on the trail itself but also on the logistics of completing this trek. From securing permits and resupplying, to managing weather and physical challenges, I’ll cover what it takes to embark on this unforgettable journey through some of the most stunning scenery in the lower 48.

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The sound of camping.

It’s not a specific bird’s first chirp at dawn or the crescendo of a tent zipper, or a distant outboard peeling back the blanket of fog that hovered over the lake, hunting for muskie.

What I remember most is the sound of a stove, the mechanical, repetitive clank of a green, model #413F Coleman two-burner camp stove being primed to life. It’s unmistakable red supply tank a call sign.

My mother would light it each morning, first for coffee brewed in a blue enamel percolator, and then eggs burnt at the edges in cast iron. A lit cigarette would teeter on the edge of the checkered picnic table that became the equipment catch-all of our camp kitchen. Paper towels. Collectible McDonald’s cups with Muppets on them, saved from drive up to use at home. The half-smoked Salem would threaten to release its lengthening ash into the damp dawn grass with each metallic clank of the pump.

If I wasn’t afraid and my brothers would approve, I’d sleep in the big canvas tent my parents would erect next to the camper at our annual site, 100 yards above a remote lake in eastern Ontario, Canada. The aptly named Moosehaven Lodge. 

The camper, too, was decorated with the Coleman brand, but it sported a 1970’s yellow-beige. It had hand crank slide-outs and musty, brown paisley cushions that I can still smell. 

I recently found the 1960s-era stove on eBay. An original one will cost about $100, and I’m thinking of adding it to my camping gear list to gauge its heartiness alongside a host of its modernized two-burner offspring from companies like Camp Chef, GSI, and Snow Peak. I wonder if they can compete. That Coleman-issue camp green holds in its hue so much camping history, as traditional to the pastime as granola bar crumbs and the stench of slow-burning mosquito-repellent coils. 

Maybe those early morning memories are at the root of my propensity to dig deep into the makeup of outdoor gear, and as a freelance journalist, to often cover it. Companies send me a lot of their stuff to test, and I’ve given away a store worth of down jackets, stoves, backpacks and headlamps over the years. 

There’s a lot of stuff out there to choose from, and my social media algorithms aren’t helping. “Guys, everything you know about camping is wrong!”

To sort through it all, I created a product that helped frontcountry families and backcountry travelers never leave an item behind, it was a lightweight tarp printed with an exhaustive camping gear list compiled from years working as an outdoor professional. It sold well, but I’m more of an idea guy than a business executive, so the company shuttered a few years ago.

Nevertheless, I still use the few tarp samples I have laying around to plan my own trips as a guide, both when leading backpacking trips for Wildland Trekking, as well as for our guided basecamps and inn-based adventures. 

Read: What to Pack for a Day hike

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My own time in Utah began while traveling cross country in my beat-up old Astrovan, headed to the southern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail from my home in Florida. Spending four months as a nomad, my voyage spanned from the sandy shores of the East Coast to the craggy expanse of the American West. Yet, it was Utah that captivated my soul, and where I spent well over half my time on that trip.  

Since then, I’ve returned every spring season. Including later hiking the Hayduke Trail, a 700+ mile trek spanning the entirety of Utah from Arches to Zion, passing through every National Park and even detouring through the Grand Canyon. Here, I share my highlights and must-sees scattered throughout this grand “flyover” state.  

Choosing your route 

This is my ultimate Utah National parks road trip, refined by multiple seasons of poking around in the sand, but remember, it’s your adventure. For the sake of this route, I recommend kicking off the trip near Grand Junction, Colorado, and traveling linearly from east to west, finishing up near Zion National Park.

Utah Mighty Five National Parks Tour

While we have extensive articles on each of Utah’s National Parks and why you should visit, this guide fills in the blank spots on the map and highlights destinations around the heavy hitters of southern Utah.  Whether you’re out for a week seeking highlights or a season stopping at every pullout for “just one more photo,” feel free to mix and match, add and subtract. After all, the best road trips are about embracing spontaneity and following your heart. 

When to go

When are we taking this trip? A very important question.  

Winter and summer can be extreme in these harsh environments, so the best times to visit Utah are either spring or fall. While most people visit these National Parks in the heat of summer, I’d recommend the cool and vibrant spring time. The best time of year to enjoy this Utah National Parks road trip is March through May, although October through November is quite pleasant as well. Any earlier and we’ll be shivering in our sleeping bags and feeling snow on our toes. Any later and we’ll be hiding in the shade as the canyons turn into an oven around us.  

Pro tip: Try to avoid Moab during Easter Weekend as this is when Easter Jeep Safari, a massive off-roading event, takes place. Every camp within an hour of town is usually mobbed as the air thrums with the growl of off-road rigs day and night. 

Following Leave No Trace Principles

The desert environment is full of exceptionally fragile flora and fauna that can take hundreds of years to grow. It is paramount that visitors tread lightly, staying on established trails and roads to avoid damaging cryptobiotic living soil crusts.  

Cryptobiotic soil (crypto meaning “hidden” and “biota” meaning life) is a complex matrix of cyanobacteria, lichens, algae and fungus that help hold sand in place, preventing erosion and giving life a chance to grow.  

Appreciate wildlife and rock art from afar, and please refrain from touching either. Resist the urge to turn these delicate arches into your adult jungle gym, nature already undergoes significant transformation without our help. Consider future generations while visiting Utah, and help to preserve it.  

Leave No Trace principles are especially important in this delicate ecosystem. In the desert environment, human waste is a serious issue. Use toilet facilities whenever you can. When these are not available, all solid waste, including toilet paper, must be packed out in WAG bags. WAG bags are specially made solid waste disposal bags that are strongly encouraged and sometimes required while recreating in a desert environment.  

Visitors can find WAG bags at gear shops in town and visitor centers in the National Parks. It is our collective responsibility to keep these parks clean and to provide sustainable outdoor recreation – do your part!

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It’s a bitter cold morning in the depths of the Colorado winter. The sun is just starting to rise behind Hallet Peak as we enter Rocky Mountain National park. The pristine snow reflects light as the breeze lifts snowflakes up to dance in the golden glow. It’s a sight to behold.

As we drive toward our trailhead we see the mountains come to life as the sun comes up. We stop the vehicle for our first animal sighting of the morning, a couple of deer prancing through the trees. We wind up the road and get nearer to the trailhead. This is the point where we all begin to mentally prepare. Snowshoeing is fun, and yet I will admit the first fifteen minutes are often cold (and often a time you often question the life choices that lead you there). 

The car is parked and we all squeal as we get out. We know it will be worth it in the end but no one is going to pretend that it isn’t cold and early out here. We gather the rest of our things strap on the snowshoes. The magical journey begins.

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Because of all of the uncertainty around COVID, we actually didn’t pay much attention to the trip itinerary, focusing instead on making sure we had all our paperwork in order. Our Grand Canyon trip was a “Level 3” difficulty and was very doable after following Wildland’s training guide, so we followed a similar routine to train for this leveled up tour. 

After a missed connection in Frankfurt and over 7 hours spent on the train into Geneva—we opted to take the train rather than wait for a new connecting flight that wouldn’t take place until the next day…looking back, we should have just stayed at the airport—we made it to Les Houches, crossing the Switzerland/France border by taxi.  

I was expecting charming mountain towns with shutters on the windows and big views of the mountains from every vantage point. And frankly, the trip did not disappoint. It took our group a half hour to walk a few blocks on the first day because there were so many photo ops to be had.

There are luggage transfers throughout the trip, which means most nights we were packing up our bags and bringing them to a drop zone at our hotel, or when available, directly to the vans. What I didn’t realize about the itinerary though, is that most often we were hiking directly to the next village or town, and our luggage would meet us at our chalet for the evening. 

It was empowering to walk from village to village, being able to cover that kind of distance in a single day.

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A few years ago I traveled to Peru with my family. We were there for a 6-day guided tour with Wildland Trekking and the trip was truly magical. I’m excited to share a bit about my experience here. 

The post Hiking the Inca Trail appeared first on Wildland Trekking.

Like a backcountry trail, it gives us all kinds of challenges with which to contend. Steep climbs. Dark storms. Confusing intersections. 

That’s why overcoming obstacles in the outdoors is such a learning opportunity. Only in testing your mettle can you see what you’re made of. While it’s a guide’s job to provide all the tools you need to reach the finish line, it’s on each hiker to realize their own resolve. With time on the trail come hard won lessons in resilience. 

Now who’s ready to see what they can do?

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