This is the Wind River Range—a lesser-known and even more strikingly beautiful alternative to its famous neighbor, Grand Teton National Park, just 70 miles away. For those willing to venture into its untamed beauty, the reward is some of the world’s best backpacking.

Why the Wind River Range?

Tucked away in western Wyoming, the Wind River Range is one of the country’s most breathtaking yet underrated backpacking destinations. With over 2.25 million acres of national forest, 600 miles of trails, and some of the highest peaks in the Rockies (including Wyoming’s tallest, Gannett Peak), the Winds are a paradise for those seeking solitude, adventure, and world-class scenery.

In this guide, I’ll cover essential things to know before heading into the Winds, plus recommendations for loop hikes to help you make the most of your time here. Whether you’re looking for a leisurely outing or a challenging expedition, this guide will help you prepare for the wild and out-there world of Wind River Range backpacking. If all of this seems like a lot to take in, Wildland Trekking offers numerous Wind River Range backpacking excursions that make it easy to pick a route and go, no stress. You can even have your very own pack llama for the whole trip!

Take a llama trek in the wind river Mountains

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You could spend a lifetime here and still have so much left to explore and discover. It is not only a geologist’s dream, but an adventurer’s playground and a photographer’s ideal— A place worth visiting over and over again, and undoubtedly a place worth protecting. 

Map of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument  

WHAT EXACTLY IS THE “STAIRCASE?” 

Causing much confusion, the eponymous “Staircase” is not an actual physical staircase. It is rather an incredibly unique geologic formation, a series of stepped plateaus identified by the main color of the rock. The sedimentary layers of rocks that are exposed by erosion are descending in age all the way from Bryce National Park to Grand Canyon National Park. For example, the oldest rocks (the most-bottom visible layer) in Bryce Canyon are the youngest rocks (top layer) in the Gray Cliffs, and the oldest rocks (bottom layer) in the Gray Cliffs are the youngest rocks (top layer) in the White Cliffs.  

For a more in-depth look at the geology of the Staircase, check out this blog article written by Alex Wood: The Fascinating Story of the Grand Staircase. 

Why visit the monument? 

Oh gosh, where to start!  This place is magical.  If you want to experience nature without the crowds, this is it. It is remote and quiet, and equally as epic as the surrounding National Parks.  Whether you are looking for a camping getaway, an incredible hike, or just to admire the roadside scenery, this place will blow your mind.

THE LANDSCAPE 

The landscape is the centerpiece attraction. With awe-inspiring views around every corner, you won’t get bored. The dramatic spires rising into the sky, colorful rocks forming buttes and mesas, and towering sandstone cliffs will surely mesmerize you. All of these formations were formed over millions of years and contain so many mysteries and opportunities for both adventure and contemplation. There are countless slot canyons, some narrow enough that hikers have to squeeze through the windswept walls, and others with huge drops that require ropes and canyoneering skills. 

If narrow slot canyons aren’t your thing, this landscape also has expansive open desert covered in impressive, hardy desert plants. If you’re lucky, you could even witness a desert bloom of gorgeous white primrose and orange globemallow. Think that the desert is all dry and hot? If you are in Escalante, you are actually not far from one of many desert oases. You can hike for days along a beautiful, flowing, spring fed creek, or hang a hammock beside the Escalante River for a relaxing afternoon among the cottonwoods.  

 THE HUMAN HISTORY 

The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument also has a rich human history, stretching back thousands of years. This region, even with its remote and rugged terrain, provided food, shelter, and water to many cultures for at least the past 10,000 years. Tribes that have called this region home include the Fremont, Hopi, Zuni, Navajo, multiple bands of Paiute, and Ute. To this day, you can find evidence of their dwellings, rock art, and granaries dotting the landscape. 

Let your imagination run wild while imagining how they used to live, surviving and thriving in tune with nature and this special land. Petroglyphs, pictographs, pottery, and stone tools are all over for those who pay attention. Please, remember to practice Leave No Trace and never remove any artifacts from where you found them.  They are sacred and should be left for future visitors to admire.  Human activity in these spiritually significant places can degrade them quickly and irreversibly. Travel lightly and only on durable, previously impacted surfaces. 

 OTHER ARCHAEOLOGY 

Some paleontologists believe that the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument holds the highest concentration of dinosaur fossils in the world! It is commonly referred to as the “Shangri La” of dinosaurs due to the discovery of at least 15 species of dinosaurs that have not been found anywhere else. The Kaiparowits Plateau is a 50-mile ridge that spans 1,650 square miles and is covered in artifacts. 

In addition to dinosaurs, fossils of ancient turtles, shellfish, and tons of perfectly preserved prehistoric plant life have been found— all of which give us a clearer window into the past than ever before. 

Imagine what else there is left for us to discover as long as we protect and learn from this land. 

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Many important figures in the hiking and backpacking community are also women: some of the earliest pioneers of the sport, Mildred Norman and Emma “Grandma” Gatewood, were women. The current record-holder for the Appalachian Trail’s Fastest Known Time is a woman named Tara Dower, completing the 2,197 mile trail in only 40 days, 18 hours, and 6 minutes.  

Despite the prominence and success of so many women who hike, navigating the sport as a solo woman can still be a daunting and challenging process. How do you find hiking partners who share your goals and to whom you can relate? What kind of gear do you need? How do you stay safe and build confidence in the backcountry? What do you do about periods?! 

This article aims to be a comprehensive resource for women, whether you’re preparing to embark on your first day hike, daydreaming about a multi-day backcountry trek, or just looking to be inspired by other incredible ladies. From essential gear and educational resources to women-only hiking groups and inspiring stories of female trailblazers, we’ll cover everything you need to know to feel prepared and confident next time you’re on trial! 

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Yosemite’s significance to the climbing community cannot be overstated, its towering cliffs and breathtaking vistas are a beacon to those seeking challenge and adventure. But, climbing here isn’t just about ascending a rock face; it’s about connecting with the landscape’s geological, cultural, and historical essence. It’s about discovering yourself while also embracing the beauty of nature.

Yosemite Geology

Yosemite’s granite walls tell a story that spans hundreds of millions of years, a tale of fire, pressure, and ice. It all began deep underground, where molten rock slowly cooled beneath the surface, eventually forming the massive, crystalline granite that would one day become El Capitan, Half Dome, and the rest of the cliffs of the Valley. Over time, the earth’s tectonic forces uplifted these rocks, and erosion stripped away the softer layers above, exposing the dense granite faces.

Then came the glaciers. During the Ice Ages, vast rivers of ice carved through the landscape, smoothing and steepening the granite faces, leaving behind the dramatic formations we see today. For climbers, the coarse, high-friction granite provides perfect cracks for jamming and clean edges for delicate foot placements, helping make it a world-class climbing destination. Each ascent is a direct connection to the powerful forces that shaped this place.

Yosemite History

Before the granite walls of Yosemite became a playground for rock climbers, the region was home to Native American tribes who lived and thrived in the area for at least 4,000 years. The Yosemite Valley and surrounding areas were inhabited primarily by the Ahwahneechee, a group of the larger Miwok tribe. These Indigenous peoples had a deep connection to the land, living off its resources and maintaining a profound respect for the environment.

The Ahwahneechee people utilized the valley for hunting, fishing, and gathering, with an intricate understanding of the area’s natural cycles and ecosystems. The iconic granite formations, such as El Capitan and Half Dome, held spiritual significance and were woven into the cultural fabric of their lives. 

Early Exploration by Europeans 

Although the valley was initially seen as a curiosity, the region’s unique geology soon attracted more explorers and geologists. As they ventured into the high country, peaks such as Cathedral Spires and Mount Watkins caught the attention of adventurers looking to ascend Yosemite’s steep granite cliffs. The first recorded technical ascent in Yosemite came in 1869, when famed naturalist and conservationist John Muir soloed Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows. This ascent, while modest by today’s standards, was a landmark achievement for the time and marked the beginning of Yosemite’s rock climbing history.

The Golden Age of Yosemite Climbing: The 1950s and 1960s

The 1950s and 1960s are often considered the “Golden Age” of Yosemite climbing, a period that marked the birth of modern big-wall climbing. Yosemite’s towering granite faces, particularly those of El Capitan and Half Dome, began to draw climbers from across the country. These climbers sought to push the limits of what was possible, and their success in Yosemite would forever change the sport.

In 1958, Warren Harding and his team made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, a climb that would become one of the most iconic routes in the world. Their ascent took an astounding 45 days and relied heavily on aid climbing, a technique where climbers use fixed ropes, ladders, and other gear to assist their progress up the wall. This ascent was groundbreaking, as it proved that Yosemite’s massive granite walls were climbable, even though many doubted the feasibility of such a feat.

Just a few years later, in 1961, Royal Robbins and his team made the first free ascent of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. This ascent was revolutionary for its use of free climbing, a method where climbers rely solely on their hands and feet for upward progress, using gear only for protection. The Robbins-led team’s ascent was a significant departure from the aid climbing techniques that had previously been the norm, and it marked the start of the free climbing era in Yosemite. Their approach to climbing was also more minimalist and respectful of the environment, an ethos that continues to shape climbing in Yosemite to this day.

The Stonemaster Era: Climbing Culture Blossoms

In the 1970s, Camp 4, located near the base of El Capitan, emerged as the spiritual home of Yosemite climbing culture. Camp 4 became the meeting point for climbers who gathered to share stories, hone their skills, and challenge one another. This period, often referred to as the “Stonemaster” era, saw the rise of climbers like Jim Bridwell, John Long, and John Bachar. These climbers not only made historic ascents but also played a critical role in shaping climbing culture.

During this time, the development of clean climbing took hold. Clean climbing emphasized the use of minimal protection—no pitons or permanent bolts—and a greater focus on natural gear, such as cams and nuts. This ethos helped maintain the integrity of Yosemite’s pristine granite while pushing the limits of what climbers could achieve. John Long, in particular, was instrumental in the growth of free climbing, making bold ascents that emphasized speed, skill, and creativity. His work, along with that of other climbers, helped define the modern approach to climbing, with an emphasis on efficiency and pure technique.

The Dawn Wall and the Free Solo of Freerider  

The 1990s and 2000s were marked by increasing technical difficulty and bold, innovative climbing. Yosemite’s iconic routes continued to be tested, and climbers sought to leave their mark on the park’s legendary granite faces. Perhaps the most famous event in modern Yosemite climbing came in 2015, when Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan. This climb, which took more than two weeks, pushed the boundaries of what was considered possible, as it involved 32 pitches of extreme difficulty. The Dawn Wall ascent brought worldwide attention to Yosemite and solidified the park’s place as the epicenter of climbing achievement.

Shortly after, in 2017, Alex Honnold achieved a feat that many thought impossible, free soloing Freerider on El Capitan. Free soloing involves climbing without any ropes or protective gear. Honnold’s climb was documented in the Oscar-winning film Free Solo and brought him international acclaim, cementing his place as one of the greatest climbers in history.

Yosemite Today

Yosemite’s climbing history is still unfolding. Each new climber who ascends its iconic faces becomes part of this living legacy. Climbers who come to Yosemite today—whether for a day of trad climbing or an attempt on the world-famous big walls, are following in the footsteps of those who helped shape the sport and create the very culture of climbing in Yosemite that endures to this day.

Hike Yosemite’s classic summits

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As transformative as my trip to Bozeman was, the experience of my first visit is hardly a unique one. Nestled in the sprawling Gallatin Valley, and surrounded by a series of awe-inspiring mountain ranges, thousands of visitors flock to and fall in love with Bozeman every year. And because it is located just 90 miles north of world-famous Yellowstone National Park, Bozeman is the perfect launching-point for an adventure to that area. Having lived in the Bozeman area for the better part of a decade and a half now, I want to share with you some of the top things to do in Bozeman, and why Bozeman stands as a perfect launching point on your way to Yellowstone National Park.

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The first time I went to Yellowstone National Park with my family, we joined the crowds and did a few short day hikes. It was such a mind-blowing, unique landscape, but to be honest, I didn’t think I’d ever go back. The crowds were enough to deter me. That all changed when a friend convinced me to go backpacking for 5 days and we saw far more bison and elk than people! Fast-forward a handful of years, and now I spend about 40 nights each year in the backcountry of Yellowstone.   

We are incredibly lucky to have such insanely beautiful spaces to explore in our National Parks. I know it can be overwhelming to decide what to do first, so let’s go over the Best National Park Backpacking Trips to get you started! Since these are very popular (for good reasons), I’ll also offer an alternate trip for each area in case you can’t snag the permit you’re hoping for or you just want more solitude.  

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Through the efforts of a local non-profit and the community, restoration work began on the watershed. In 2020, samples taken from various locations along the Cheat showed that hellbender salamanders had returned to the river. Their presence indicated that the restoration work was successful and the river had returned to a healthy level. When I’m home, I visit the river hoping to catch a quick glimpse of these extraordinary amphibians in my own backyard.

The eastern hellbender’s range extends from southern New York through to Northern Georgia, following the path of the Appalachian mountains. A few years ago, during time spent working in North Carolina, I was lucky enough to see these well camouflaged salamanders in the Smoky Mountains. They were out of sight again just as quickly as I found them, leaving behind a small cloud of sediment in their wake. But, even without seeing them in person, it’s hard to visit Appalachia without coming across the hellbender’s influence. The mascot of local high schools, and the image on many a bottle of local IPA, an outsider might ask why the hellbender salamander is so important to this region.

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The following devastation was unfathomable. The winds devastated an approximate 800,000 acres of timber land, the creeks in the mountains surged across 25 counties destroying everything in their path, and as the rivers swelled, neighboring communities were lost in the raging waters. The flooding that resulted was the worst in recorded history, the French Broad River rose to a historic thirty feet deep, the Swannanoa to twenty-seven (or 3 from CFS to 10,000). 

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The towering cliffs and lush spring-fed creeks of Aravaipa Canyon, conveniently located just 2.5 hours from Phoenix, Arizona offer an incredible and unique hiking experience. And because the Aravaipa Canyon permits system limits the amount of hikers in the canyon to 50 at any given time, you are guaranteed to find a sense of remoteness and solitude that can be hard to find in today’s day and age.  Making sense of the logistics and permitting structure of a trip to Aravaipa Canyon can be a confusing undertaking; but with this guide to Aravaipa Canyon permits you will have the knowledge to plan and tailor a trip to your needs. 

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